07.16.2007 — Installers often struggle to select the right kind of cabling for any given installation.

Should it be bundled? If so, should it be wrapped or fully jacketed? Or maybe individual runs make more sense.

The decision ultimately affects installation efficiency and therefore profits. Everyone knows that.

What some installers overlook, however, is that cable packaging itself can contribute equally to the bottom line. It can influence the speed of installation, the efficiency of inventory control and the productivity of workers at the job site.

Wire and cable research and development is guided by the contractors and installers who handle the products in real life situations. These end-users are an important control group for ideas.

Since many low voltage installers treat cable products in much the same way angry baggage handlers do luggage at the airport, keeping ahead of the destruction curve with easy to use, durable packaging has always been a challenge.

Thankfully, several options are available for the many different cable products currently offered. Here are a few tips on what to look for in cable packaging.

Reels and spools are the forefathers of modern wire and cable packaging. Their durability in different environments, as well as their resistance to tangling, has always made them popular.

The disadvantage is that wire reels require a rack or “caddy” for installation. Bringing a wire rack on the job is sometimes a pain in the neck, especially in residential retrofit situations where appearance and cleanliness is the norm.

However, contractors and installers who have come up through the ranks installing line voltage and power wiring think nothing of dragging a rack or two around.

When you get to the job site, set up the rack in a safe and stable area, take a look at the wire reels and make sure they are the proper size. The size of the reel is very important.

Reels that are oversized may end up with broken flanges (the big disk on either end of the reel) during shipment. The wire would then pop out all over the place, making it next to impossible to pay-out properly. The same is true for a reel that is too small and flimsy.

Next, check the size of the holes on the end (called the arbor holes) that the caddy rods go through. Make sure that they are an acceptable size for your rack.

Too small and they won’t fit; too big and the reel will wobble enough to knock the rack over.

The tube in the middle is called the barrel. A large barrel will add support and help with the payout. If the barrel is too small, the reel will feel flimsy and break easily. Also, the tightly wound cable will curl up when you pull it.

How the whole reel assembly is constructed is important. For metal reels I suggest a five-piece system: Two flanges, one barrel and two end caps that close off the barrel.

The end caps look like round discs that are attached to the barrel. These are far superior to the bent tabs that you might see on less expensive products. Picking up the reel by the flange is not a great idea, but if you do, the end caps will help keep the reel from falling apart.

Wood reels require a different challenge. The same rules apply except the flanges are held in place by bolts. Look for a large size bolt with washers underneath and T-nuts on the opposite side. The T-nuts and washers guard against the bolts, breaking through the flange.

Wood reels should not have any cracks or splits. Plastic reels have recently become popular with lighter weight products such as voice and data cables. On the plus side, plastic reels have one-piece constructions, are light weight and tend to be resilient. However, they can crack in cold weather and are difficult to repair.

Cable boxes (also called “pull boxes") have been popular for the last twenty years. Inside a pull box, the cable is wound together without the need for a spool ("reel in a box” will be discussed later). A good box design is light weight, durable and sized to fit the product.

If the cable is jammed in, it will not pull out easily. If there is too much space around the wire, it will get tangled. Pull boxes are great for quick set-ups and tear-downs and can save time and money if handled properly.

Make note of the crush and exploding weight, which is stamped on the bottom of the box. There is a greater chance of getting good performance when the box has a durable weight specification. Another durability check is to turn the box on its side and look at the edge of the cardboard.

When the vertical ribs are tightly compacted the box will be reasonably strong. In the real world of fast-paced installations, wire boxes have to endure extreme weather and moisture—not to mention the occasional toss down two flights of stairs. A durable box is a key element to good wire and cable performance on the job.

The wire in a pull box feeds out through an opening called the payout. Older and less sophisticated boxes have a small tube that is forced inside the box to the center of the cable. These kinds of payouts can cause a problem with jamming, kinking and tangling.

Many of us know what it’s like to be on a ladder fifty feet away and see the box dragging across the floor. The solution to this problem is a large opening with a short intrusion. This “rabbit pull” style increases efficiency up to 99 percent and makes many job site headaches disappear.

Now turn the box carefully on its side. You should be looking at two flaps. Older style boxes have flaps with tabs that intrude inside the box. These tabs often open during use, causing the box to lose its shape.

If they happen to stay closed, the tabs will tangle with the wire and cause knots. Look for the flaps to be straight across and taped along the sides. This type of design takes one more variable out of the tangle equation.

Try to keep the box upright as much as possible to prevent tangling, especially when partially filled. Also, check the handle hole to make sure that it can support the weight of the cable. There’s nothing like hauling two or three boxes up a flight of stairs with a ripped handle.

Another added benefit is clear labeling on the boxes. Remember, if you can make the AHJ or inspector’s job easy with a clearly marked and reputable product, your life will be made easier too. A reel inside a box has become the norm for some cable products.

This resilient packaging offers a smooth feed for cables that are sensitive to tangling and kinking. However, they tend to be heavy and expensive and usually confined to high-end voice and data cables.

One of the newer low-voltage packaging innovations has been shrink-wrapped or “bag" wire. The cable is wound tightly in a coil with plastic wrap around it for protection and added durability. The advantage is a light weight, durable product with no tangling or kinking.

All one needs to do is punch a hole in the top and feed out the wire. This packaging also can be stacked and fed through a common hole. Always look for the type with a band around the coil. The band is essential for keeping the wire together and guards against tangling.

When it comes right down to it, packaging is all about dollars and cents. If the complete length of the cable pays-out cleanly and evenly, you win the material and labor game. Beware the price of inexpensive packaging. Don’t let it become a hidden cost on your next installation.

Dean Myers is the product/market manager of Coleman Cable Inc., based in Waukegan, Ill.