11 Tips for Central Vac Installation
Here are 11 tips to keep in mind during a central vac install.
Installing central vacuum systems is one discipline in the custom installation field that really relies on common sense.
For example, while there are formulas for determining the size of the motor, it can sometimes be a nice 30-foot piece of rope that comes in handy.
Here are 11 bits of hard-earned central vac wisdom.
Always size the motor of your vacuum to include areas of the house that aren't yet finished. At some point in the future, the unfinished basement will get completed. You shouldn't have to replace the central part of the system when that eventuality finally occurs.
When determining hose length, take that trusty piece of 30-foot rope, and nail one end of it in the spot where the inlet will go. Then, walk about to ensure you will have adequate hose coverage for the area with that length of hose.
Longer hoses can be swapped in, but doing the job correctly removes the need for that later fix.
When plumbing is behind the walls' piping, start on the highest level of the home and work down. Put the pipes together on a dry run basis first, and only apply adhesive after it all goes together properly.
Only use sharp 90-degree angles at the inlet. Using them here keeps things from being sucked into the system that really should not be — like pencils, crayons, cats or children.
When installing a junction, or T, make sure that you pay attention to the direction from which the suction is coming. An improperly installed T will require the dirt to get sucked around a very sharp angle, and that will lead to less efficiency and more clogging.
If you are installing a nonelectric valve system, pay attention to the location of usable electrical outlets. Then, position your inlet accordingly — that is, nearby.
If the vacuum canister is going to be installed in an attached garage, it's imperative that you meet local and state building code requirements. For example, be sure that you install a fire block between the inside and outside spaces.
Central vacuum motors draw a sizeable amount of current when they first turn on. Have the electrician install a 20-amp breaker dedicated to the vacuum system.
You really don't want to have the breaker pop when the vacuum is being run with another household appliance. It's always a good idea to put surge suppression on the central canister.
When cutting pipe, either use a dedicated pipe-cutting tool or a miter box. It's important that the cuts be straight and true, without spots for crud to get caught up on.
When installing kick pans under cabinetry, make sure that the opener is easily accessible for the homeowner. Use appropriate trim pieces to present a nice, clean finished look.
Garages need vacuums too. If you don't have an inlet in the garage, there are many brands of small canister systems that can stand alone for use in garages that will help make cleaning the car or boat easier.
Consider this type of device as a hook when contacting customers for whom you've done work in the past.
For example, while there are formulas for determining the size of the motor, it can sometimes be a nice 30-foot piece of rope that comes in handy.
Here are 11 bits of hard-earned central vac wisdom.
Always Size the Vacuum Motor
Always size the motor of your vacuum to include areas of the house that aren't yet finished. At some point in the future, the unfinished basement will get completed. You shouldn't have to replace the central part of the system when that eventuality finally occurs.
Check Your Hose Length
When determining hose length, take that trusty piece of 30-foot rope, and nail one end of it in the spot where the inlet will go. Then, walk about to ensure you will have adequate hose coverage for the area with that length of hose.
Longer hoses can be swapped in, but doing the job correctly removes the need for that later fix.
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Work From the Top Down
When plumbing is behind the walls' piping, start on the highest level of the home and work down. Put the pipes together on a dry run basis first, and only apply adhesive after it all goes together properly.
Use 90-degree Angles at Inlet
Only use sharp 90-degree angles at the inlet. Using them here keeps things from being sucked into the system that really should not be — like pencils, crayons, cats or children.
Pay Attention to Direction During Suction
When installing a junction, or T, make sure that you pay attention to the direction from which the suction is coming. An improperly installed T will require the dirt to get sucked around a very sharp angle, and that will lead to less efficiency and more clogging.
Keep in Mind Location of Usable Outlets
If you are installing a nonelectric valve system, pay attention to the location of usable electrical outlets. Then, position your inlet accordingly — that is, nearby.
Meet Building Codes
If the vacuum canister is going to be installed in an attached garage, it's imperative that you meet local and state building code requirements. For example, be sure that you install a fire block between the inside and outside spaces.
Install a 20-amp Breaker
Central vacuum motors draw a sizeable amount of current when they first turn on. Have the electrician install a 20-amp breaker dedicated to the vacuum system.
You really don't want to have the breaker pop when the vacuum is being run with another household appliance. It's always a good idea to put surge suppression on the central canister.
Prevent Jams
When cutting pipe, either use a dedicated pipe-cutting tool or a miter box. It's important that the cuts be straight and true, without spots for crud to get caught up on.
Keep Aesthetics in Mind
When installing kick pans under cabinetry, make sure that the opener is easily accessible for the homeowner. Use appropriate trim pieces to present a nice, clean finished look.
Upsell
Garages need vacuums too. If you don't have an inlet in the garage, there are many brands of small canister systems that can stand alone for use in garages that will help make cleaning the car or boat easier.
Consider this type of device as a hook when contacting customers for whom you've done work in the past.
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Article Topics
News · Business Resources · Central Vac · Installation · Central Vacuum · Installation ·About the Author

Fred Harding is in sales and technical support at Capitol Sales, a full service distributor of electronic installation hardware.
2 Comments (displayed in order by date/time)
Isaac, The two main types are blade and ratchet. I sell both but find habit drives the buying practice. Personal preference is the ratchet type but you MUST insure that it has a thin-wall PVC blade in it. The standard PVC blade is a pain to use and frustrates most installers. My first cutter in the 70’s was made out of a pair of Channel-Locks! The blade-type cutters break blades as you slide them down the pipe. Take a look at options at:
http://builtinvacuum.com/install_shop/tools-wire.html and call for dealer pricing.
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What is everybody’s favorite PVC Cutter? Has anybody ever tried the ratcheting kind? Seems like they could break fragile CV tubing.