Q I am trying to decide between buying a DLP Rear Projector TV (like the Mitsubishi WD-82837 82-Inch) or a Projector and Screen.

Obviously size is important, but picture quality is even more important. If $5,000 is my budget, which should I go with? - Jonathan L. Kort, Ankeny, Iowa

There are two ways to approach it: the first way is to think of the overall cost and with that in mind, there’s no question that a rear-projection television is much more affordable. It is however a type of technology format that is slowly dying (flat-panel TVs are killing off rear projection) and it also takes up a lot of room on an aesthetic level.

The preferable choice in my opinion is a two-piece projection and screen solution. It is more costly, but you will have more screen size choices (you’ll also end up with a larger screen in all likelihood), and a easier upgrade path to allow you and your budget to grow into whatever is next in terms of technology (CinemaScope now for example and the development of 3D, which isn’t far off).

I would start by looking at projector manufacturers like Epson, Panasonic, InFocus, Sony, Optoma, Sanyo and Mitsubishi. They offer 1080p products that range in cost from approximately $1,000 to $3,500 and technologies that include LCD, DLP and LCoS (a type of LCD), and you can mate one of these products with screens from companies like Elite Screens, Vutec, Screen Research, Da-Lite, Draper, Dragonfly and even Stewart Filmscreen.

From there as the costs begin to come down you can look at investing into an anamorphic lens and screen. Companies like Panamorph make really good anamorphic lenses and it will transform your media/home theater room into a true home cinema without the black bars and a wow factor that will awe your family and friends.

I hate to step on Mr. Archer’s toes. But one very important question he left out is, How do you intend to use the room?

If it’s a Family Room with windows and french doors and there’s a lot of light in there, then a 2-piece front projection system is probably a bad idea regardless of price. Even the brightest projectors are no match for the sun.

If it’s a dedicated “TV room” with shades and/or light control and you can make it very dark in there, then a projection system has many benefits as Mr. Archer indicated.

But if you’re a sports guy who is doing a big upgrade for football season and you like to have “the guys” over and want the lights on for your game-day get-together, make sure you get a projector capable of 50 foot-lamberts or more. Just take the square-footage of your screen and divide it by the lumens of the projector and add in screen gain. For example, a 100” screen would be about 30 sq. ft. so you would need a real 1500+ lumens. But if you’re just watching movies in the dark, 20 foot-lamberts is plenty, so around 600 lumens will cut it. And don’t put too much stock in contrast ratios. Most ratings are flat-out lies, and unless you paint your walls and ceiling flat black, and literally eradicate all light from your room, you’ll barely break 700:1, much less 70,000:1.

There are a lot of things to consider, and we have just scratched the surface. I strongly recommend you visit a local showroom and view an RPTV and a front projector in the conditions you intend to use them in before going much farther.

Hi JBrown, I agree with your comments about controlling the room environment. The reader didn’t specify what the ambient light conditions in the room so I answered the question based on the information he offered.

I would also add, that another spec to question are those ANSI brightness figures, which are measured in a variety of ways to pump up those numbers.

You are correct in pointing out that I should have mentioned the room environment as a factor that affects a projector’s performance.

Bob

If you want the best of both worlds, (even without knowing the amount of ambient room light), see if you can find an older Sony SXRD rear projection set on the web. Even though the models were discontinued a year or so ago, I found a 70” set at One Call. These sets not only give you the brightness of LCD’s, but also have no motion artifacts as in a plasma design.

With a $5K budget, there are very few, (if any), overhead projector and screen combos that will deliver the quality of these TV’s. Believe me, I faced the same exact problem a while ago and called every dealer out there until I found this beauty. Good luck!

Dave Stevens - 01 September 2009 05:52 AM

These sets not only give you the brightness of LCD’s, but also have no motion artifacts as in a plasma design.

Sorry Dave, but “motion artifacts as in a plasma design”? “Brightness of LCD’s”? What are you basing these statements upon?

Actually, it was older LCD TVs that were known for motion artifacts, but that was due to the panel’s response time. Nowadays on any of the better 120Hz sets it’s pretty-much a non-issue.

And I would take a current Mitsu 82-inch over a used Sony 70-inch in a heartbeat. But that’s just my opinion and not really relevant to the OP. Plus, the only Sony 70” models were a Qualia 006 and an XBR2 series model. They’re not exactly easy to find and both are known for some bad contouring issues in the black areas. Not to mention the potential “green blob”. My 60XBR2 was afflicted with both.  The green blob was repaired under a specail warranty period Sony had to provide after a class-action suit, but I think the time frame is up on that one.

To srankin: I think you misunderstood what I was saying… When I said, “have no motion artifacts as in plasma design,” I was implying that plasmas do NOT have motion artifacts as in the case of LCD’s. Regarding brightness, LCD’s have always been brighter than plasmas especially when there is a lot of ambient room light.

To jbrown: The Sony I purchased was brand new and sealed in the box from One Call. That’s why I said I searched everywhere to find one. I was well aware of the “potential green blob issue” because I sold these sets for a period of time as a dealer. Unfortunately when I had these sets in inventory, I didn’t have a space big enough to put it in, but always wanted one. This issue occurred in about 50% of the sets, and you’re absolutely correct that Sony extended the warranties to correct the problem. At the same time, Sony’s Grand Wega LCD RPTV’s had a different issue with with white & blue star bursts that were noticeable in white scenes. Sony also extended the warranty on those sets too.

To make a long story short, I did purchase the Grand Wega LCD when I had them in inventory, and did suffer the “star burst issue,” in which Sony took care of it free of charge. Luckily, my 70 XBR2 did not have the green blob issue. BTW: The green blob issue was mainly in the PC input on the TV which I believe is the Video 8 HDMI input. I do not know if Sony would still cover it if there was a problem… but again, I don’t have that problem.

I have not seen the latest Mitsu 82” set, but I have never been a big fan of the brand because they always leaned towards the red no matter how hard you tried to adjust them. Sony is well known for leaning towards the blue, but it is easily compensated by setting the color temperature to the neutral or warm setting.